Steering Box Rebuilds

• Steering box is thoroughly disassembled, cleaned &
   examined
• All external parts are painted with a dark Cast Iron
    paint
• New Sector Shaft Needle Bearings pressed into
    housing
• New Input Shaft Ball Thrust Bearings pressed into
    housing & nut

• Input Shaft bearing surfaces are polished
• All thread holes are re-tapped
• Die used to clean threads on Sector Shaft
• New Sector Shaft Seal installed in housing
• Input Shaft Bearing Load is set to factory specs
• Gear Teeth Mesh Load is set to factory specs
• Box is filled with new lithium-based grease

Some people rebuilding Mustang & Ford steering boxes re-use old bearings, particularly the input shaft thrust bearings. WE ALWAYS USE NEW BEARINGS IN OUR REBUILDS.

Some rebuilders advertise and use an "improved" sector shaft bearing for better lubrication. This is simply a cheaper needle bearing with fewer needles inside it and allows a slightly greater chance of grease to get into the bearing. It also provides less support for the sector shaft and allows more play in the gear mesh. WE ALWAYS USE THE BEARING WITH THE GREATER SURFACE SUPPORT. This is the same needle count style as the original bearings.

When you send in your steering box for a rebuild, if you send the Pitman Arm and attaching parts along with it, we will clean, blast and paint the pieces at no extra charge.

Occasionally we get in an Input Shaft that has the threads torn up where the nut that holds down the steering wheel goes. Shaft with light damage are easily repaired with a die, but if too much metal is missing for this, we can turn the shaft down and re-thread to a smaller size, thus saving the input shaft. A new steering wheel retaining nut is provided.

The Input Shaft Thrust Bearings use the surface of the shaft itself as the inner bearing race. About a third of the cores that come in for rebuilding have damaged bearing thrust surfaces on the input shaft. Sometimes the surfaces are "faceted" from the bearings and are smooth but no longer round. Most often the surfaces are pitted from rust like in the picture to the right. Moisture gets into the steering box through the opening for the input shaft and goes through the top shaft bearing. It also settles to the bottom of the box into the bottom bearing.
Damage like this causes the shaft to feel "notchy" and rough when turning, even with new bearings. The shaft surfaces must be reground to a new, smooth surface.

Steering Boxes are normally refinished in a dark cast-iron paint to simulate the natural cast finish and provide protection against corrosion. If you request, boxes can be brushed to a more natural finish and clear-coat protected for a more concours appearance.
If you send your box in with the Pitman Arm still attached, we will properly remove, clean, blast, paint and reinstall the arm for your convenience at no extra charge.
If your box is disassembled, cleaned for inspection, and found to have other damage or worn components that need replacing, we will contact you before working any futher on your box.
If you want your core returned to you without doing a rebuild, there will be a $ 10.00 service fee to cover our costs of teardown, cleaning and inspection.

Replace Input Shaft - Replace worn or damaged Input Shaft/Worm Gear with good used part ........
Replace Rack Block - Replace worn or damaged Rack Block with good used part ........................
Replace Sector Shaft - Replace worn or damaged Sector Shaft with good used part ....................
Replace Gear Housing - Replace Gear Housing with used housing with correct casting number ....
Machine Input Shaft Bearing Surfaces - Grind & polish bearing surfaces of Input Shaft .............
Re-Thread Input Shaft - Turn down & re-thread steering wheel threads ....................................

All Steering Box rebuilds have a Two-Year Warranty

Why pay twice as much for a repro steering box that only has a One-Year warranty?

For more information on our Steering Box Warranty, Return Policy and Core Policy, CLICK HERE